Annie SloanTM chalk paint transformation of office chairs into patio chairs

BushcraftZ 2015

My husband moved his business and had four chairs from his previous reception where the upholstery was stained otherwise the chairs were in a good condition. They also did not fit into his new premises.  We decided that these would make super patio chairs.

I wanted to try using Annie Sloan^TM chalk paint on upholstery for a long time. This was the ideal opportunity. It was important to us to be able to wipe the chairs because in South Africa dust is a problem on anything that stands outside. I also tried work on a way to get the painted fabric water resistant so that we are able to wipe them with a damp cloth to remove any dust. For this I used the Annie Sloan wax in three layers. The first two layers I used wax diluted with mineral turpentine so that the wax could soak into the fabric. The final layer was applied with undiluted wax to seal the fabric. Although the chairs are standing outside under roof they are to some extend exposed to the sun and moisture when it rains and of course, the ever present dust especially during the dry months. We will have to see how long this treatment lasts on the chairs.

I chose Aubusson blue as the base colour for the chairs as it is a relatively neutral colour. I also thought that if the dust stains the fabric over time it might add an additional dimension to the chairs when combined with the blue. I hope that should this happen the effect will be similar to using the dark wax on furniture. Only time will tell how that turns out.  To add a bit of fun I painted words like LOVE, EAT and LAUGH onto the seats in Graphite and added hearts with Burgundy.

Materials:

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Chair before paining

• Office chairs with upholstered seat and back cushions
• 1L Aubusson blue Annie Sloan^TM Chalk paint ( This was enough for our 4 chairs)
• Annie Sloan^TM Chalk paint tester pots in Graphite and Burgundy
• 1x Annie Sloan^TM clear wax
• Mineral turpentine
• Brushes for the paint and the waxing
• Old tin to mix the wax with the turpentine
• Spritzer with water
• Craft heat gun (optional – I used my embossing heat gun)

Method.

(This method is a guide as every fabric will react differently depending on the weave and pile of the fabric. Fabric with longer pile might use more paint and wax.)

PAINTING

I was able to remove the upholstered parts from the metal frame of the chairs. This made painting the upholstery easier as I did not have to protect the perfectly intact galvanized metal.

Spritz the fabric with water to wet it slightly this helps with getting the paint into the fabric. Be careful not to soak the fabric too much. Use a brush and paint the fabric. The fabric on the chairs had a woven pattern. I had to work the paint into the fabric with the brush in all directions. If the paint was too thick in certain places I spritzed a little water to help the paint soak into the fabric. Take care not to use too much water otherwise it can look streaky and chalky. If this happens just paint a second layer. Allow to dry. Repeat painting if the coverage is insufficient. Each chair was decorated with words and hearts. I allowed the paint to dry in the sun and thereafter overnight to ensure that all the moisture was gone from the upholstery before starting with the waxing process.

BushcraftZ 2015

BushcraftZ 2015

BushcraftZ 2015

WAXING

When waxing work outside or in a well ventilated room. The fumes of the mineral turpentine are very unpleasant.

Spoon wax into a separate container and mix it with turpentine until the wax is a very soft buttery consistency. Paint the diluted wax onto the painted fabric working it well into grain of the fabric. At this point I carefully used my heat gun to melt the wax into the fabric. I would suggest that one test this first on an hidden area to ensure that the fabric does not get damaged by the heat. In any case be very careful not to burn yourself or the fabric. In my case the first layer of wax melted into the fabric and looked great. If you do not have a heat gun place the waxed fabric into the direct sun to allow the wax to melt into the fabric.

Add a second layer of wax diluted with turpentine. Allow to dry in the sun and overnight.

For the final layer used undiluted wax and worked it well into the fabric to seal the fabric. At this point I left the wax on the upholstery to cure for a week before using the chairs in order to allow the wax to seal in the paint.

Test for water resistance to ensure that the wax layers are sufficient for your fabric.

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Assemble the chairs again and enjoy on the patio.

 At this point I do not know how long this treatment on the upholstery will last when exposed to the elements, but for now we think it was worth the effort. 

BushcraftZ 2015

Storage bag for circular knitting pins

After a few months of not posing anything on this blog I have finally managed to design a new project, make it and write the instructions. It feels good to be back in early spring and I hope to be able to post new ideas more regularly again. 

BushcraftZ 2015

Today's project is a storage bag for circular knitting pins. It was inspired by a colleague who is a fantastically inspiring knitter. She only knits with circular knitting pins. These are often frustrating to store neatly as their floppy center causes them to jump at you when you open a storage box. This can result in chaos. To keep track of the correct size is also a challenge. This easy to make storage case has 12 pockets for circular knitting pins of all sizes and will keep them organized and easy to access.

Materials:

• 50 cm x 50 cm cotton fabric for the inside lining
• 60 cm x 60 cm cotton fabric for the outside cover
• 100 cm x 50 cm clear plastic table cloth for the pockets
• 5 m x 1 cm wide cotton tape
• general sewing materials
• paper, pencil and ruler for pattern making
• pattern: Download PDF  

Method:

1. Download the pattern and measure out the indicated dimensions for the three pattern pieces onto a sheet of paper as indicated on the pattern:  A (Inside lining), B (outside cover) and C (plastic pockets). Cut out the pattern pieces.

2. Cut out the following:

• 1 x Pattern A for inside lining
• 1 x Pattern B for outside cover
• 4 x Pattern C for plastic pockets

3. Begin with the plastic pockets. Sew the cotton tape onto the top (32 cm) edge for each of the four pockets.

TIP: If the plastic contains folds they can be smoothed out by carefully ironing the  by the plastic as follows. Place the plastic between two sheets of paper and set the iron onto the lowest setting and gently iron the plastic. Allow the plastic to cool between the sheets of paper before working further.

4. Place the plastic pockets onto of each other so that they overlap approximately 5.5 cm. The assembled layers of plastic pockets should form a 32 cm wide by 35 cm long rectangle.

Carefully place the aligned plastic pockets on top of the inner lining keeping the top and side flap open. Refer to the pattern as a guide.

3. Remove the top three plastic  pockets and stitch the first pocket onto the lining along the bottom edge. Add the following pocket and stitch along the bottom edge. Repeat for the remaining two pockets. There should now be four tiers of plastic flaps attached to the lining.

4. Place the cotton tape along the outer edges of the pockets and sew into place. Ensure that the edges of the pockets are caught by the stitching and well secured. Divide the pockets into 3 equal parts approximately 10 cm wide. Place the cotton tape along the two division lines and sew in place to create 12 pockets.

5. Place the completed lining, with pockets, on top of the outer cover with the wrong sides together. There should be an approximately 2.5 cm wide edge of the outer cover around the inner lining. Carefully fold the edge over twice onto the lining to form a neatly bound edge. Tuck the corners in neatly and pin or tack in place. Sew along the edge to attach the lining to the outer cover.

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6. Cut two 80 cm lengths of cotton tape and fold each piece in half. Attach them to the outside of the side flap at the midpoint of each tape to complete the case.

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BushcraftZ 2015

Organize the circular knitting pens into the pockets according to size. Needle sizes can be written onto the pocket with permanent marker for easy reference or inserted into each pocket on a small card.

BushcraftZ 2015

DIY: Daisy fresh cosmetic bag for Mom on Mother’s day

BushcraftZ 2015

Spoil Mom on Mother’s day with this easy cosmic bag. The felt applique is easy to custom make to suit your mother’s personality.

Materials

• 60 cm x 40 cm cotton fabric
• 60 cm x 40 cm oil cloth
• 30 cm zipper
• Felt remnants
• Matching embroidery cotton, ribbon remnant for tag, approximately 5 cm, general sewing materials

Daisy fresh cosmetic bag pattern PDF

Method

1. Refer to the pattern and cut out two 30 cm x 20 cm cotton rectangle for the outside of the bag and two 30 cm x 20 cm oil cloth for the lining.

   

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2. Decorate the one cotton rectangle with felt applique and embroidery stitches.

   

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3. Insert the zipper along the 30 cm length of the bag by sewing it between the cotton and oilcloth fabrics. Turn right side out and top stitch along the end of the zipper.

   

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4. Fold the pieces cotton side together and pin in place. Trim the edges to ensure that the rectangle is square.
5. Open the zipper until halfway ensuring that the fabric does not shift. Fold the ribbon in half and place it between the two oil cloth pieces facing inwards as close a possible to the open part of the zipper. Sew the three remaining edges together capturing both cotton and oil cloth and also the ribbon. Trim the edges neatly and overlock or zig-zag the edges with matching cotton.
6. Open zipper completely and remove pins.
7. To create a broader base for the bag, fold the first side edge open and press it towards the stitching line of the bottom edge. Ensure that the stitching of both edges meets perfectly. Pin in place. Repeat with the other side edge. Measure 5 cm from the bottom corner of the bag along the aligned stitching and mark with a pin. Repeat for the other corner. Draw a line at the 5 cm mark at right angles to the aligned stitching. Stitch along this line. Turn the bag right side out. And check that the bag is symmetrical at the base. If all is in order, turn the bag wrong side out again and trim the created triangle 1 cm from the stitching. Overlock or zigzag the edges with matching cotton.
8. Turn the bag right side out to complete. Fill the cosmetic bag with treats for mom.

   

   BushcraftZ 2015

Decorate Easter eggs with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint

BushcraftZ 2015

In a few days we will be celebrating Christianity’s most important yearly event, the resurrection of Jesus Christ.  Easter is often celebrated with gatherings of family and friends and there are many different traditions linked to Easter such as the beautifully decorated eggs that do not always based in Christian believes but are today firmly linked to this day.  This year I decorated empty egg shells with Annie Sloan^TM Chalk Paint to create a shabby chic look in various shades of blue.

Materials

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• Empty egg shells
• Annie Sloan^TM Chalk Paint (Napoleonic Blue, Aubusson Blue and Duck Egg Blue)
• Annie Sloan^TM clear and dark wax
• Glue gun and hot glue
• Paint brush, old toothbrush and very fine sand paper (180 grit) and soft cloth.

Method:

1. Paint empty egg shells with a layer of Napoleonic Blue allow to dry.

   

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2. Use the hot glue to make patterns on the egg allow the paint to dry.

   

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3. Paint the egg again with a layer of Aubusson Blue followed by a layer Duck Egg Blue, allow the paint to dry between each layer.

   

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4. Once the paint has dried well use the toothbrush and find grit sand paper to distress the egg. Wipe away the chalk paint dust with a soft cloth.

   

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5. Apply a payer of clear wax and allow to dry to seal the paint. Discretely apply the dark wax to bring out the design to finish of the eggs.

   

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   Clear wax layer

   
   

   

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   Dark wax layer

   
   

   

   BushcraftZ 2015

Blog 095: DIY fabric craft:Long-limbed bunny

BushcraftZ 2015

Today I share a simple fabric bunny pattern with you that can be constructed from fabric remnants left over from other projects.

Materials:

• Fabric remnants
• Soft toy stuffing
• General sewing materials, buttons and ribbon
• Optional: A haemostat and a thick knitting needle are useful during the construction of the bunny.
• Bunny pattern (PDF)

Method:

1. Download the pattern and copy the pattern pieces onto paper and cut out the individual pieces.
2. Cut the following pieces from fabric. (The pattern includes a 0.5 cm seam allowance.) Head: Cut 2 (One reverse), Ears: Cut 4 (Two reverse), Body: Cut 2 (One reverse), Arms: Cut 4 (Two reverse), Legs: Cut 4 (Two reverse).

3. 

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4. Ears: Place two ears right side together and sew along the edge. Leave the short edge open. Turn right side out. Ensure that all seams are pressed and sew top stitching around the edges. Repeat for the second ear.

   

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5. Head: Mark the dart on each of the two head pieces as indicated on the pattern and sew the dart in place.
6. Assemble the head: Fold the ears in half and place them right side together either side of the dart of the front piece of the head. Anchor the ears with a few stitches.

   

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7. Place the two head pieces right side together and sew along the edges, leaving the neck opening open. Turn the head right side out. Use toy stuffing to stuff the head. Set aside.
8. Arms: Place two arms right side together and sew along the edge. Leave the short edge open. Turn right side out. Repeat for the second arm. Insert a little stuffing into the hand. Use an iron to press the arms flat.
9. Legs: Place two legs right side together and sew along the edge. Leave the short edge open. Turn right side out. Repeat for the second leg. Insert a little stuffing into the foot. Use an iron to press the legs flat.
10. Body: Mark the two darts on each of the body pieces as indicated on the pattern and sew the darts in place.

    

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11. Assemble the body: Decide on the placement of the arms and legs. Place the arms and legs right side together on the front body piece and anchor with a few stitches. Place the two body pieces right side together. Sew along the edge. Leave a 5 cm opening on the one side. Turn the body right side out and stuff with toy stuffing. Close the opening by hand with invisible ladder stitching.
12. Fold the outer raw edge of the neck inwards. Position the head onto the body and pin in place. Sew the head secure onto the body by hand.
13. Embroider a face with embroidery cotton to complete the bunny. Add a few buttons and a ribbon for decoration.

    

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14. 

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Blog 094: DIY Recycle: Weavers nest clothespin holder

BushcraftZ 2015

Every household has a clothespin holder for laundry. When ours fell apart after years of use I wanted to create a new original design. Outside our kitchen we have a tree where masked weavers build their nests. I have much joy watching the beautiful males build nests for their fussy females getting is just right. These birds are experts in bird nest design and construction and sometimes abandon a half build nest for a better shape or location on the tree. These nests are the inspiration for today’s project. I have used left over denim fabric and cut off fabric, yarn and sewing thread that one tends to throw away while working on other sewing, crochet and knitting projects do create a weavers nest clothespin holder.

Materials

• Denim cut offs
• Fabric remnants
• Cut-off crochet and knitting yarn and sewing thread
• Wire clothes hanger
•  General sewing equipment
• Weavers nest Pattern PDF

Method

1. Print out the pattern and cut out four pieces from denim fabric. For two of the four cut a hole as indicated on the pattern for the front of the birds nest.

   

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2. Cut fabric remnants into strips and fray the edges. Use the yarn from the frays, and other collected yarn and sewing thread remnants together with the fabric strips to decorate the four pieces.
3. Place the fabric and yarn remnants on the cut out denim pieces ensuring that that they are randomly interwoven to resemble the look of a wavers nest. Use a sewing machine and sew the remnants onto the denim. I sewed in a freehand crisscross fashion ensuring that all the remnants were anchored without losing the wavers nest  effect .

   

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4. Assemble the birds nest. Place the two front pieces of the nest right side together and sew along the front end leaving the openings as indicated on the pattern. Sew the two back pieces together leave the opening as indicates on the pattern.  Place the front and back pieces of the nest right side together and sew along the outside edge leaving the top opening  free.
5. Turn the nest right side out. Shape the wire hanger into the shape of the nest and insert it into the nest allowing the hanger to protrude through the top opening. Depending on the size of the hanger one may have to adjust the wire protruding at the top. The hanger should sit along the outside edge of the nest.

   

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6. Secure that hanger with a few stitches and cover the protruding part of the hanger by wrapping it with fabric strips. It helps to anchot the strips with a few stitches. Close the top opening of the nest.

   

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7. Use yarn and finish off the edge of the entrance hole of the nest with blanket stitches to complete the weavers nest  clothespin hanger.

   

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   BushcraftZ 2015

DIY: Distressed shadow box frame painted with four Annie Sloan ChalkTM Paint colours

BushcraftZ 2015

Due to the chalky nature of the Annie Sloan Chalk^TM Paints they are ideal to use in distressing techniques. For this project I wanted to try to layer four colours of Annie Sloan Chalk^TM Paints and distress specific areas so that all four colours blend into each other.  I chose a shadow box frame for the project since I had a collection of shells and sea-side finds that I wanted to display. The colour combination I selected reminds me of small fishing boats found in the fishing villages on the West Coast of South Africa. The patina in the multiple colour layers speak to the history of these boats.

Materials:

• Shadow box frame (I bought mine at a local craft shop)
• Annie Sloan Chalk^TM Paints (Duck Egg Blue, Emperor’s Silk, Aubusson Blue and Napoleonic Blue)
• Annie Sloan^TM clear soft wax
• Annie Sloan^TM dark soft wax (optional)
• Paint brushes
• Sand paper

Method:

1. Paint the shadow box with Duck Egg blue as a base colour.
2. Use Emperor’s silk to paint specific areas where you would like red to show through. Allow to dry.

   

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3. Paint areas with Aubusson Blue. I painted over the areas that were already painted with Emperor’s Silk  and Duck Egg Blue, creating three and two paint layers in specific areas.

   

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4. While the Aubusson blue layer was drying I started to paint the entire shadow box with Napoleonic Blue. In areas where the Aubusson blue was still wet the colours blended slightly and in the regions where the previous colours had already dried the layers were more distinct. Allow to dry. I left the paint to dry for a few days before I had time to continue with the project. 

   

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5. I decided not to wax the paint first before distressing. With a 80grit sandpaper (this is relatively rough) I carefully distressed the frame. I worked so that the colours in the different layers were exposed. The roughness of the sandpaper created distinct marks in the paint layers sometimes penetrating unto the first layer but also showing the other layers beneath the Napoleonic Blue.

   

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6. Carefully wipe away the chalk paint dust with a dry cloth and a clean brush.
7. Cover the surface with Annie Sloan^TM clear soft wax. If you rub hard in some areas one can use the wax to blend the colours. One must however be careful not to blend too much and create an indistinct colour pallet that appears dirty. Allow the wax to dry.

   

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8. I wanted to create alight contrast between the ‘box’ section and the frame and used a little bit of dark wax over the light areas in the ‘box’ section to deepen the colours slightly.

   

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9. Place a special collection of shells in the box frame and close the frame up.

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TIP: I wanted to place the box frame as a display on a coffee table. I therefore glued a felt layer underneath the box frame to protect the table from scratches.